Training Tips 

Conditioning your dog to the Head Halter
This conditioning also works effectively for muzzles

This will allow you to control the problem but does not correct the problem.  Get your dog into a class that teaches proper walking techniques.

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Some people will find it best to use a head halter (some brand names are "Halti"or "Gentle Leader") to gain control over their dog. A light weight, small handler with a very powerful large dog who tends to pull will find that if they condition the dog properly to a head halter, it will be like having power steering in your car. You can lead him around with one finger. People who have arthritis, mobility problems or are just not strong enough will find the head halter a blessing.

The head halter is also good for those who may not be able to accomplish the correct timing for a correction or who are forgetful and can’t be consistent.

People may be reluctant to use the head halter because strangers may think it’s a muzzle for a vicious dog. As these halters are becoming more and more popular – it is becoming widely known that they are simply a tool for controlling your dog.

I have seen a great number of dogs who were not conditioned to the head halter properly and who continue to fight it, pawing at it and rubbing their muzzles against the ground to try to rid themselves of it.

You cannot just stick a head halter on your dog and drag him out the door for his walk. It takes maybe three times as long to condition your dog to a head halter compared to other collars.

If you follow these instructions, you will assure that your dog associates the head halter with a pleasant experience and will look forward with joy to his walk when he sees you reach for it.

  • Introduce your dog to the head halter when he is tired and relaxed. Take him for a good run or have a great game of frizbee or fetch.
  • When he is sleepy and laying down quietly, (with a leash on, so he can’t run away), speak in soothing tones and rub his belly or pat him gently. Have an assistant place the head halter on.
  • If the dog remains completely relaxed – leave the halter on as long as you wish – continuing to rub his belly and talk soothingly to him. If the dog starts to get agitated, wait until he is calm again, then have the assistant remove the halter and try again later.
  • When your fingers get tired, have your assistant remove the head halter and then discontinue the belly rub. (IN THAT ORDER)
  • Do this 3 or 4 times a day, even if only for a minute. 
  • Continue the same routine the second day.
  • If your dog is completely relaxed each time on the second day you are ready for the next step. 
  • On the third day, (only if the dog is relaxed about the procedure) try putting the halter on without the belly rub. If he suddenly starts worrying about the halter – go back a step and continue with the belly rub routine.
  • After about 4 or 5 days, you can leave the halter on the dog around the house, as long he doesn’t bother with it.
  • On day 6 or 7 you can clip a leash on the dog and take him into the yard for a "walk". Use food treats and toys to keep his mind on positive things.
  • Use your body language and your voice to get him playing with you. Run backwards, clap your hands, use an upbeat, high pitched voice to get him to come with you without pulling on the halter.
  • After 2 days of practice in the back yard, start walking around the neighbourhood (pick a familiar route).
  • After 2 more days of practice in the neighbourhood, you can start snapping the halter if the dog is pulling. As he turns toward you or slows down, instantly praise and reward him.
  • If you consistently give your dog the above positive reinforcement and reward when you put the head halter on, he will be jumping with excitement each time you go to put in on him.

Caution: You must not let the dog rub the halter off. If he gets it off even once, he has won and he will try to get it off every time. Make sure the collar is adjusted tightly around the head and snout. You should never remove the halter when the dog is pawing at it and struggling. Wait until he is calmed down and relaxed and then remove it.

You may leave the head halter on around the house if you are there to supervise. You must not leave the dog unattended with it on, as it could get caught on something causing him to panic. Also, never let him play with another dog with it on. There is a chance of the a claw or tooth getting caught and panic would result. 

HERE IS A SIGN YOU CAN USE ON YOUR FRONT DOOR WHILE TRAINING




PREVENTING CHAOS AT THE DOOR

The doorbell is a trigger for our dog to bark and jump on our guests.

 We are working on training him and need your help.

 When we open the door, if the dog runs to you and tries to jump on you:

  • DO NOT TOUCH HIM
  • DO NOT TALK TO HIM
  • DO NOT EVEN MAKE EYE CONTACT WITH HIM
  • TOTALLY IGNORE HIM


When he is sitting nicely and calmly we will give you the signal to greet him if you wish.

If he lunges and jumps, just ignore him again. 

 

We really appreciate your help with this, as we cannot train him in isolation.

For more detailed information on how to have a well-behaved dog greet your guests

send us an email
 
FINDING THE MOTIVATORS FOR YOUR DOG

All dogs are different but most are motivated by food.  We often use food to teach the dog new things, however, the dog should be weaned off food as soon as possible.  Food can be a huge reward for a dog with poor behavior.  To change bad behavior into good behavior, the key is rewarding the dog when he makes the right decisions.

Food should never be left down on the floor.  If you free feed, the dog will never connect the food to you.  You should be the boss who gives out the pay envelope after a job well done.
Have the sit and wait and then put the food bowl down and then say "Take it".  You are sending the dog clear signals that you are in charge of his pay cheque.

Toys are great motivators.  How many times does your dog bring you a ball and insist on you playing.  Who is in charge??  If you have time to play, then give your dog a 'sit and stay' and then throw the ball, releasing your dog from the stay at the same time.  Now you are making your dog work for the reward.  If you leave toys out for the dog to go and play with anytime he feels like it, you are in essence, giving the dog his own bank card and allowing him to make withdrawals at his whim.

A huge reward for smaller dogs and even bigger breeds, is to share your lap or couch.  Your dog should earn the right to be on your lap or to sit beside you on the couch.  Get him to perform a simple command like 'sit' before YOU invite him up.

Little changes like the above can lead to a huge change in your dog's behavior.

Most of all....................have FUN with your dog!

ANIMAL BEHAVIOR ASSOCIATES

Visit HelpingFido.com and HelpingKitty.com for behavior information and products you need to understand, prevent, and manage your pet’s behavior. We trust the Certified Applied Animal Behaviorists there for effective, scientific, state of the art help.You will find a wealth of information to help you with any problem behaviors you may be experiencing with your dog or cat at  ANIMAL BEHAVIOR ASSOCIATES
 
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